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Paul Glassman’s Costa Rica Guide
PASSPORT PRESS Eleventh Edition Copyright © 2003 by Paul Glassman
All rights reserved. The reproduction of any part of this book without the author’s written permission is strictly prohibited.
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3
A Short History
Here are some paradoxes:
Hardly a building survives in Costa Rica from the colonial era, though such relics abound elsewhere in Central America. There are few public historical monuments. Yet Costa Ricans, unlike their neighbors, refer almost constantly to the past to explain why they are the way they are; hardly a visitor escapes acquaintance with the country's post-Conquest history.
In museums and shops, exquisite ceramics and wrought gold recall pre-Columbian Indian cultures. Yet virtually no Costa Rican feels a link to the first inhabitants of the land.
The proudest moment in Costa Rica's history was a military intervention in a neighboring country. Yet Costa Rica claims a peaceful tradition of non-interference that sets it apart from other Latin American nations.
PRE-COLUMBIAN COSTA RICA
Even before the first Spaniards arrived, what was to become Costa Rica differed from neighboring lands. To the north, in what are now Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras and El Salvador, and to the south, in mainland South America, civilizations arose based on the cultivation and harvest of bountiful crops of corn by large groups of settled people. Some societies were so powerful and complex that they altered the landscape with great cities, subjugated peoples for hundreds of miles around, traded regularly with distant lands, wrote histories, and made complex astronomical calculations.
But the Costa Rica of that time was off civilization's beaten track. Armies and traders moved south from Mexico and Guatemala, and north from Peru. Some left their influences in Costa Rica. But none succeeded in dominating the land. Costa Rica was for both cultural regions a distant backwater, removed from the main communication routes. Mountains and swamps impeded passage. Population was sparse. Abundant food and water allowed the native groups to move easily from place to place, which made them difficult targets for conquest. As well, there were few riches to arouse long-term interest by outsiders. Contacts existed between north and south—Peruvian gold and seashells have been found in Mayan tombs—but the path of least resistance was by sea.
The peoples living in Costa Rica when the Spanish arrived belonged to five major cultural groups. Caribs, of South American and Antillean origin, inhabited the Atlantic region. Borucas, related to peoples of Colombia, lived in the lower Pacific coastal area. The Corobicís, the oldest of the native groups, lived in small bands in the valleys of the north. There were also a few Nahuatl-speaking Indians recently arrived from Mexico. The Chorotegas, the most numerous, lived in the Nicoya Peninsula, which was not to become part of Costa Rica until the end of the colonial period. More advanced and settled than the other groups, they cultivated corn and beans for subsistence, and cacao for trade. In all, about 25,000 persons inhabited Costa Rica at the beginning of the sixteenth century, mostly in groups isolated from each other by rivers and mountains and jungles. Even related bands spoke mutually unintelligible languages. They made war on each other, and sacrificed or ate captured enemies.
Archaeologists have been able to trace a shadowy cultural history of the first peoples of Costa Rica, using the objects they left behind. Pottery from Nicoya from before the time of Christ shows similarities to Mesoamerican styles of the period, with red coloring on a buff background. Elsewhere in Costa Rica, pottery was made in a single color, as in South America. A few hundred years later, jade appeared in Nicoya and central Costa Rica, probably imported from Guatemala. The northern influence is evident also in the appearance at the same time of the Mexican god Tlaloc on pottery in Guanacaste, in the northwest. In the sixth century, gold from South America began to appear in southern Costa Rica, possibly following the fall of the empire of Teotihuacán in Mexico, and the disruption of maritime trade routes. By 1000 A.D., multicolored pottery was the norm in Guanacaste and Nicoya, and houses were built in rectangular shapes, all attributes of cultures to the north. Elsewhere in Costa Rica, houses were circular, while pottery featured appliquéd decoration, both characteristics of areas to the south. But while some of the influences of north and south are evident, the dividing line between the two in Costa Rica was generally faint and meandering.
SPANISH OCCUPATION
In densely settled parts of the Americas, the Spanish conquest followed a set pattern. The Spaniards made hesitant contacts with the natives of the coast, learned of a ruling civilization inland, marched to the interior, made war and alliances along the way, and finally subjugated the capital of the native empire, along with everything it ruled. Gold was sought by adventurers, souls by the Church, and glory by both. A new order was imposed, as Indians were parceled out to Spaniards to be converted, resettled, and put to work. Slaves were imported as necessary to replace those who did not survive war, disease, abuse and outrage. Spaniard married native, and a new set of classes, with the native-born Spaniard clearly on top, replaced in a few decades what had existed before.
In Costa Rica, events took a somewhat different turn, though not for want of effort on the part of the Spaniards. Indian battled Spaniard, but there was no empire to be subdued, and usually no surrender. Riches were elusive, and few slaves were imported. Soldiers and fortune-hunters gave way to subsistence farmers. With the passage of time, the settlement came to have more in common with English and French colonies in North America than with other Spanish dominions.
It was Christopher Columbus himself who discovered Costa Rica, and whose sailors were the first Europeans to be discovered by the natives of Costa Rica. The encounter took place on or soon after September 18, 1502, when Columbus, on his fourth voyage to the New World, took shelter from a storm at what is now Uvita Island, just off the port of Limón. No account survives of the impression that the intruders, with their white skins and huge ships, made upon the natives. But the Spaniards noted straight off the golden disks and animal-form decorations worn by the inhabitants, and acquired some of them in exchange for junk jewelry. And through native playfulness or cunning, or faulty interpretation, or wishful thinking on the part of the newcomers, the Spaniards departed with the impression that there were treasures aplenty in all landward directions. Thus, and with similar exchanges on succeeding expeditions, did the nickname of Costa Rica—the Rich Coast—become applied to the land that the Spaniards officially called Veragua.
Attempts to subdue the land and its peoples, and appropriate its reputed treasures, however, faltered. A party led by Diego de Nicuesa in 1506 explored the Atlantic coast of present-day Costa Rica and Panama. But the close-knit native bands viewed all outsiders with mistrust, and none made the fatal mistake, so common elsewhere, of allying itself with the newcomers against traditional enemies. Attacked by Indians who vanished into the jungle, ravaged by heat, diarrhea, yellow fever and assorted diseases to which they had no resistance, tormented by clouds of mosquitoes, drenched by seemingly inexhaustible rains, bogged down in mud, unable to replenish supplies, the men of the Nicuesa party departed without founding a permanent settlement, and later expeditions likewise came to grief.
Frustrated on the Atlantic side, the Spaniards turned their efforts to the Pacific shore. Here the terrain was less of a morass, the vegetation less impenetrable, the inhabitants more permanently settled and less intractable. Spanish attempts to conquer were less of a failure. The expedition of Gil González Dávila in 1522 succeeded in peacefully converting many Chorotega Indians under Chief Nicoya to Catholicism. Quantities of gold were carried off as well. The price was over a thousand men dead from the familiar trio of hunger, disease and raids. Francisco Fernández de Córdova later founded a town called Bruselas near present-day Puntarenas, but infighting among Spaniards led to its abandonment. Short-lived settlements were established on both coasts, but for more than half a century from the arrival of Columbus, there was no permanent Spanish foothold. Finally, in 1561, Juan de Cavallón, with a party of Spaniards and domestic animals, founded the successful settlement of Garcimuñoz in the Pacific lowlands. For lack of finding gold, however, Cavallón himself withdrew.
It was under Juan Vásquez de Coronado, Cavallón's successor as governor, that Costa Rica's course began to differ from that of the other Spanish provinces. Vásquez moved the main settlement from the lowlands to the temperate Central Valley, and renamed it Cartago, or Carthage. The search for gold was abandoned, and Vásquez attempted to deal with the natives in friendship. Spaniards cultivated crops for their own consumption, lived mostly in peace, but achieved no great prosperity. Cartago was not the sort of outpost that attracted adventurers, but at least it survived. The luck of Costa Rica in being governed by Vásquez, however, did not extend to him personally: he was lost at sea after a voyage to Spain to seek financial aid for the colony.
COLONY AND NATION
Despite the initial peaceful settlement of the valley, conflict with the natives was inevitable, and the Spaniards dealt with them in characteristically harsh fashion. A few were subjected, and came to live peacefully alongside the Spaniards, to serve them and eventually to intermarry with them. Others were conquered and removed to areas where they could be easily watched over. By far the largest numbers refused to submit. Some simply moved on to remote areas of the lightly populated country. Most either died violently or succumbed to the diseases brought by the Spaniards, to which they had no resistance. There was no Indian problem in the parts of Costa Rica settled by Spaniards simply because there were soon few Indians.
Without native labor to exploit, without crops to grow for export on a large scale, restricted in trade by Spanish mercantile policy, hemmed into a small valley by hostile environments, Costa Rica stagnated, and the very name of the colony must at times have seemed a cruel hoax. No great public buildings were erected. Little moved out of the province but small amounts of meat, cacao, honey and potatoes. Traders faced a journey to port made hazardous by Indians. Sea traffic was ravaged by pirates. Manufactured goods were in short supply. Costa Rica was virtually isolated from Nicaragua, and communication with Panama existed only by a mule trail that was often impassable.
Spain responded to piracy by closing the ports in 1665. Trade plummeted, though smuggling to Panama and illegal contacts with Dutch and English merchants continued. The shortage of money forced the colonists to revert to the traditional Indian medium of exchange, cacao beans. Cloth was so scarce that tree bark and goat hair were used to make clothing. Even the governor had to grow his own food.
The forlorn colonists remained isolated on their farms, not even coming to town to attend church, not least because they had nothing to wear. Family life was disorganized, and church officials complained of the licentiousness of the populace. A few immigrants drifted in, but the colony hardly grew; more than a hundred years after its founding, Cartago, the capital, was barely more than a village, with fewer than a hundred houses, and a single church. It was destroyed almost entirely by the eruption of the volcano Irazú in 1723.
Costa Rica's last century as a colony saw some improvement in the standard of living, and even a modicum of prosperity. Religious authorities, alarmed at the depths of poverty and ignorance, the low level of morality, and their declining influence, in the late eighteenth century ordered the populace to resettle and concentrate around the churches. Trade with the other colonies was officially re-opened toward the beginning of the eighteenth century. Cacao plantations near the Caribbean expanded as the coastal area was fortified, and by the end of the eighteenth century, Costa Rica was exporting tobacco, sugar, wheat and flour, as well as cacao. To the first towns of Cartago and Aranjuez were added Heredia, San José, Alajuela and Escazú, all organized in the eighteenth century as agriculture and settlement pushed westward from Cartago.
But progress was relative. In comparison
with neighboring colonies, Costa Rica still remained poor, isolated, sparsely
populated, a social misfit in its lack of a class structure. There were
probably no more than 20,000 persons in Costa Rica at the opening of the
nineteenth century, most descended from the few score families that had
first settled the colony. Less than one-eightieth of the land had any significant
settlement.
Independence, when it came, had little initial effect on Costa Rica. Spain had administered the five Central American provinces from Guatemala; toward the end of the colonial period, Costa Rica was reduced to the status of a dependency of Nicaragua. In practice, however, Costa Rica had long gone its own way. Without the ambitions and class conflicts of the other colonies, living at subsistence, Costa Rica required only minimal government.
News of the independence of Central America, declared in Guatemala on September 15, 1821, reached Costa Rica at the end of the year. A provincial government was hastily formed, and soon acceded to annexation to Mexico. Opinion on the association was divided, however, and a short civil war was fought. The forces of the town of San José, rejecting Mexico, gained the upper hand. In the end, the Mexican empire collapsed in 1823, and Costa Rica joined the United Provinces of Central America, with full autonomy in its internal affairs. The most important result of independence was the elimination of Spanish trading restrictions, but since the world was not beating a path to Costa Rica's door, even this freedom was of limited value.
With little administrative heritage from Spain, Costa Rica's form of government varied over the years. At times it was frankly experimental, as the legislature changed from bicameral to unicameral and back again, and the capital was rotated between towns on a trial basis. Internal strife also came with independence, though to a lesser degree than elsewhere in the region.
Costa Rica's first elected president, Juan Mora Fernández, held office until 1833, and began the policy of encouraging coffee cultivation. Civil war broke out toward the end of his term over the location of the capital. Braulio Carrillo, chosen for the presidency by congress in 1835, succeeded in stabilizing the country politically and financially, and planted the capital firmly in San José. Carrillo extended his term by coup d'etat, and ruled as a benevolent dictator until overthrown in 1842 by Francisco Morazán, a Honduran and Central American federalist. Morazán's extra-national ambitions led to his own overthrow and execution in 1843.
Costa Rica made do with a weak central government after Morazán, and even abolished its army for a short time. In 1848, all connections with the moribund Central American federation were severed. A strong leader emerged once again in 1849 with the election to the presidency of Juan Rafael Mora, a representative of the new coffee aristocracy.
Mora's term saw the one glorious military episode in Costa Rica's history. The American adventurer William Walker had taken control of Nicaragua, and Mora responded to the challenge by raising an army to oppose him. Aided by Britain and by American business interests, Costa Rica played the major role in ousting Walker from the isthmus.
Following the Nicaraguan adventure, Mora was overthrown, and was subsequently executed when he attempted a comeback. A military government gave way to a series of constitutional presidents who represented the aristocracy. In 1879, Tomás Guardia overthrew the government, and ruled as a military strongman until his death in 1882. The presidency then passed in turn to two of Guardia's relatives.
Development and Expansion
The topsy-turvy politics of Costa Rica in the nineteenth century were only a sideshow to the economic changes that were taking place. Costa Rica was transformed, as coffee came to be cultivated on a large scale.
Coffee was first grown in Costa Rica toward the end of the colonial period. The plant was so eminently suited to the highland volcanic soil and held such obvious promise that the newly independent republic granted it exemption from a number of taxes. By 1829, coffee was Costa Rica's most important product. In 1831, the government began to give away land on which to plant the crop. Production grew from 50,000 pounds in 1832 to 9 million pounds in 1841, and by the 1880s, annual harvests approached 100 million pounds.
Inevitably, the rewards of coffee cultivation were not distributed evenly. Some families acquired large expanses of land, transformed their wealth into political power, and developed tastes for culture and the finer things in life that the nation had done without for so long. But despite the emergence of a class structure, there appeared to be land and profit enough for all, and no sector of society failed to advance.
Although he was autocratic, Tomás Guardia saw himself as a benefactor of his people. Under his government and those of his two successors, roads were built and improved, public buildings erected, capital punishment abolished, and primary education made free and compulsory, and independent of the church. Coffee earnings, and borrowings against future earnings, financed the expenditures.
The problems of shipping coffee led indirectly to the development of a second major export crop. Coffee was sent by oxcart to the Pacific port of Puntarenas, then on a long voyage around South America to markets in the eastern United States and Europe. To shorten the journey, President Guardia ordered the construction of a railroad line to the Atlantic. Bananas were planted as a stop-gap measure to provide revenue for the financially troubled project. The new crop proved immensely profitable, and large areas were soon planted in the fruit.
DEMOCRATIC COSTA RICA
Costa Rica's modern, democratic tradition started with the election of 1889, the first that was honest, open and direct. No violent revolutionaries clamored for reform at the time. In a typically Costa Rican way, President Bernardo Soto, in response to demonstrations, called for the free election whose time, apparently, had come. José Joaquín Rodríguez, a candidate opposed by Soto, won the election and, against expectations, took office. The course of democracy was to have its ups and downs thereafter. Presidents attempted to amend the constitution in order to succeed themselves, and dismissed uncooperative legislatures. But peaceful transitions of power, and more active participation in politics by all sectors of the population, characterized the years that followed.
The major challenge to the democratic trend came in 1917. Claiming that the government was corrupt, Minister of War Federico Tinoco Granados seized power and ruled as a dictator. Opposition by the United States helped force his resignation after two years, and elections were held for a successor.
In the 1930s, Costa Rica began to show signs of social unrest. Many of the benefits of coffee wealth had gone to relatively few families. An extraordinarily high rate of population growth had led to repeated division of the smaller landholdings, and many workers owned no land at all. A strike in the banana plantations succeeded in obtaining higher pay, and agitation was threatened elsewhere.
The response of those in power was to take the lead in distributing wealth more evenly and improving the security of workers. President Ricardo Jiménez Oreamuno organized a government insurance company, and in 1935 began the distribution of United Fruit Company land to farmers, in small plots. Under Rafael Angel Calderón Guardia, a physician who became president in 1940, the measured pace of reform continued as the first social security legislation was enacted.
Calderón was to be one of the more controversial figures in modern Costa Rica. His social programs—including paid vacations, unemployment compensation and an income tax—and his early declaration of war on Germany, offended many of his original conservative supporters. Calderón sought to broaden his political base by allying himself with the Communist-influenced Popular Vanguard party. The polarization of the country continued under Calderón's successor, Teodoro Picado. Conservatives considered the government radical, while liberals, led by José Figueres Ferrer, felt reform programs were ineffective.
In 1948, Calderón ran again for the presidency, and lost to Otilio Ulate. But the government claimed fraud, and the legislature annulled the results. Tensions rose, and finally broke out into an open rebellion led by José Figueres. Armed by the governments of Guatemala and Cuba, the rebels prevailed in a few weeks over the army. The short civil war was the bloodiest in Costa Rica's history, with more than 2000 killed.
MODERN COSTA RICA
José Figueres led an interim administration that attempted to restore order to a disrupted nation. Banks were nationalized and taxes restructured. Most curiously following a civil war, and amid threats from domestic plotters and opponents in exile, Figueres and his allies chose not to purge and restructure the army, but to abolish it altogether, retaining only those elements of the old security forces that they considered appropriate in the Costa Rican context: a national police force, and the military bands.
A constituent assembly proceeded to write a constitution that rejected some of Figueres' proposals, but extended social welfare programs, gave the vote to women, ended discrimination against blacks, and established an electoral tribunal with broad powers to ensure the honesty of elections. Following the legislative elections of 1949, Figueres stepped aside, and Otilio Ulate, the victor of the disputed 1948 vote, assumed office as president.
Despite the bitterness of the civil war, politics in Costa Rica since 1948 have been remarkably peaceful and democratic. Exiles have threatened invasions on two occasions, but have found no internal support, and their movements have fizzled. José Figueres himself twice served as president, from 1953 to 1957 and from 1970 to 1974, and his National Liberation Party has dominated electoral politics. But it has only twice held the presidency for more than a single term.
Social and economic progress since 1948 has contributed to stability. With revenues growing as a result of high coffee prices and expanded cultivation, the government acted to improve living conditions and modernize agriculture and industry. Social legislation was implemented without the heavy-handed opposition by business interests that plagued Costa Rica's neighbors. By 1981, social security programs—medical care, health services and income maintenance—served 90 percent of the population, took 40 percent of the national budget, and were the largest employer in Costa Rica. Education accounted for 30 percent of the budget, and basic schooling was widespread. Government clinics and private agencies have provided birth-control information to a people concerned not with surviving but with maintaining its standard of living. A population growth rate that was one of the highest in the world at mid-century was reduced from over four percent to well under three percent. Life expectancy has meanwhile risen to 75 years, the longest in Latin America, and a respectable figure for any country.
Economically, Costa Rica has diversified considerably. Industry expanded at phenomenal annual rates of over ten percent in the sixties, as manufactured goods were exported to the new Central American Common Market. Exports to other areas remained largely agricultural, but expanded to include meat, lumber, sugar, cacao, and flower seeds, along with coffee and bananas.
Massive public works have helped to improve living standards. Hydroelectric projects have brought power to most homes in the Central Valley. An intracoastal canal along the Atlantic has improved access to parts of the lowlands. The highway system has been extended even to the once-forbidding Caribbean region. Government land continues to be available to those who are willing to work it. Foreigners and foreign investment have been equally welcome, and tourism has grown to become the second source of foreign exchange, after bananas.
Contemporary Challenges
But not everything was rosy for Costa Rica. Through the 1980s, unstable coffee prices, oil bills, disruptions of trade in the Central American Common Market, the arrival of refugees from Nicaragua, the shutdown of banana plantations in the face of higher taxes and labor strife, and the costs of social programs all gave the society and economy a jolt, debts mounted, and the currency was continually devalued as the economy took a break from headlong expansion.
Attempts were made to diversify agriculture and develop new sources of revenue, such as manufacturing and distribution in duty-free zones. Money laundering and transit of controlled substances have helped balance the books, along with better-documented grantsmanship: U.S. aid at one point was the second-highest in the world on a per-capita basis.
Elsewhere in the region, economic crises led to turmoil and bloodshed. In Costa Rica, administrations that have failed to stabilize the economy have been turned out of office democratically.
Internationally, Costa Rica has continued to exert a strong moral influence as a nation that has officially renounced the use of arms, while sometimes unofficially lending support to neighboring armed movements. For his key role in putting together a regional peace plan, president Oscar Arias was awarded the 1987 Nobel Peace Prize.
Arias was succeeded by Rafael Angel Calderón Fournier, son of former president Rafael Angel Calderón Guardia. Calderón took office in 1990, following a string of electoral defeats, with strong business support, and implemented a pay-as-you-go approach to finances.
Calderón's political opponent, José María Figueres Olsen, rode into office in 1994 on the coattails of his father, legendary former president Pepe Figueres, despite rumors of past shady activities. Buoyed by peace in Central America and a rapidly expanding tourism sector, Costa Rica saw increasing foreign investment, capped by its selection as the locale for an Intel microprocessor plant. Figueres was succeeded in 1998 by Miguel Angel Rodríguez. The current chief executive is Abel Pacheco de la Espriella.